Scott's Rants and Raves 2004 Archives
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Dear Santa - Volume 4, Issue 12 - December, 2004|
We Nova enthusiasts have been good this year and would like to give you out Christmas wish this. The following is a list of
parts were would like to see start being reproduced by the aftermarket:
I'm sure I missed a few but this should be enough to get you started. They don't all need to be ready by December 25 of
2004 but sometime before Christmas of 2005 would be nice. I'm sure I have more parts for you by then. Thanks Santa and as
- 1962-65 coupe rear glass stainless moldings
- 1965 trim parts
- 1965-67 console parts
- 1966-67 L79 air cleaner
- 1968 interior parts
- 1968-79 replacement rear subframe rails
- 1968-79 radiator core supports (small- and big-block, A/C and non-A/C)
- 1968-79 bucket seat floor braces
- 1972-73 Skyroof parts
- 1973-74 bumper to grille filler panels
- 1973-74 full quarters
- 1973-74 tail lights
- 1973-74 grilles
- 1975-79 full quarters
- 1975-79 rear inner fender wells
- 1975-79 grilles (standard, SS/Rally, Concours/Custom)
- 1975-79 grille parking lamps (standard, SS/Rally, Concours/Custom)
- 1975-79 interior parts
- 1975-79 headlight bezels
- 1975-79 fender extensions
- 1975-79 tail light end panels (standard and 3-lens tail lights)
- 1975-79 tail light assemblies (lens, bezel, gasket and housing for standard and 3-lens tail lights)
- 1975-79 4-speed transmission hump
- Hatchback parts
- New heater box cover for 1968-79 A/C cars to replace large evaporator suitcase
- Modern aftermarket subframe for 1975-79 Novas
- LT1 and LS1/LS2/LS6 oil pans and engine mounts to fit 1962-79 Novas frames
Nova and Chevy II images needed - Volume 4, Issue 11 - November, 2004
Do you own a stock or "stock appearing" Nova? Ever wanted to have you car published in a book about Novas? Well, here's your
chance. Recently I received an email from Tom Collins, an automotive book editor with K P Publishing (formerly known as
Krause Publishing), in Wisconsin. They are going to be working on a book about 1962-79 Chevy IIs and Novas and are looking
for original, as close to stock (at least exterior) car images as possible.
Tom said that they will credit each image used, offer a copy of the finished book and will return all slides and color prints.
If you have digital images, they ask that they download images on to a CD ROM, storing them at minimum of 300 dpi and in
TIF format, if possible. They are also considering cover and back cover images and selected internal shots from professionals.
Tom likes to encourage the work of new photographers so if you have the skills and the images, this is a great opportunity
to not only promote your Nova but your talent as well.
The contact information is:
K P Publishing
700 East State St.
Iola, WI 54990
715-445-2214 x455 or 1-800-345-3168 x455
Shiftworks In-dash Tachometer Conversion Kits for Novas: Part 2 - Volume 4, Issue 10 - October, 2004
Last month I discussed the new In-Dash tachometer
conversion kits being sold by Shiftworks. Before I sat down to
type my rant I sent off an email to Shiftworks to clarify some issues I had. The main issue was if these tachs would work
with an aftermarket, multiple spark ignition system like MSD. The instructions that came with my MSD box explained how many
tachs would not work with the ignition box unless an expensive tach adapter was used. At the time I wrote that rant,
Shiftworks was not sure if it would or not.
For me, this was a big issue because it significantly raises the price of the tach if I also have to purchase an adapter to
get it to work. Over the next few weeks, Herb from Shiftworks was extremely helpful in trying to get an answer. I was very
impressed with him and Shiftworks customer service. What we found out from the manufacturer was that the internals were
similar to those used on Autometer tachs. Autometer is one of the tach manufacturers that MSD says does not need an adapter.
Herb then offered to send me a tach to test. This test will kill 2 birds with one stone as it will also clear up the issue if
the 1971-74 tach will physically fit the 1975-76 dash.
I requested the 1971-74 tach with white numbers (part S517-W) to match my 1976 dash. When it arrived I was very impressed
with the quality of the tach and the ingenious design. You see, the tach is in 2 parts to make
it fit the small dash of 1968-76 Novas. One part is basically just the face and needle. The other part is a "shotgun shell"
that contains the electronic brain of the tach. The two parts are connected by a 4 wire harness with a connector to
separate the two. This made installation and future removal easier. It probably also makes manufacturing much cheaper as the
same brain can be used for many different "faces" to fit numerous cars. (Shiftworks also sells tachs for 1964-65, 68, 69 and
1970-72 Chevelles). The brain is wired into the car with only 3 connections: 12v switched power (red wire), Tach signal
(green wire) and a ground (black wire). This is identical to other tachs with the exception of no white wire for lights. This
is because the lights already in the dash provide the illumination.
Before I tear apart my dash, I wanted to test the tach to see if it worked with the MSD box and to see how accurate it was.
I temporarily wired it into the car along with the 3-3/4" Autometer Street Tach I had been using for many years. As a second
test I hooked up a digital multimeter and set it to tach mode. I am happy to say that not only does the Shiftworks tachs work
with an MSD box but they are very accurate. It matched my Autometer tach in accuracy and responsiveness.
Installation required the complete removal of the instrument cluster. For 1968-76 Novas that means disconnecting the battery,
removing the radio, disconnecting the shift indicator wire from the column (on automatic Novas), lowering the column by
removing the 2 nuts holding it up, removing all the screws (8) holding the instrument cluster to the dash, disconnecting the
HVAC controls (3 screws) disconnecting the wires for the headlights, wipers, seatbelt warning light, the light for the wiper
switch, the speedometer cable and the main instrument cluster wiring connector. I also had to disconnect my Autometer tach.
Once the cluster was out, you remove the light bulb on the clock side, remove 2 screws that hold the cover plate on,
carefully move the ribbon wire harness out of the way and pull the block off plate (or clock) out he back. The tach just
slides in using 2 tabs for proper alignment. Next lay the ribbon wire harness back over the tach and replace the 2 screws to
hold everything together. Next, replace the light socket. Do yourself a favor and replace all the bulbs at this time. I think
there were 15 altogether and let me tell you, it made a huge difference after everything was back in the car. None of my bulbs
were burnt out but the new bulbs were much brighter.
Because 1968-74 Nova clusters have square openings, the face of the Shiftworks tach is square. 1975-76 Nova clusters, however,
have round openings for the fuel and clock. Don't let this worry you as the Shiftworks tach looks good in the opening. You
can see some of the edge but only if you look very closely.
OK, now that the tach is physically in the cluster it's time to mount and wire in the brain. Be sure to mount it close to the
tach face as the harness that connects the two is not that long. I used wire ties to attach the "shotgun shell" to the main
wiring harness of the car right behind where the tach will sit. Then I connected the 3 wires to the matching 3 wires of my
shift light and then to where the previous tach wires were connected. With everything working I replaced the cluster into the
dash. Don't forget to connect all the wiring and the speedometer cable.
How does it look? Stock. Yes, it's smaller than my Autometer tach but it is much larger than the
factory in-dash tachs. The factory 1968-74 and 1975-76 tachs only has a 90-degree range for the needle to sweep.
Shiftworks tachs use a 270-degree range of the needle sweep. That is 3 times the space which makes seeing the tach much
easier. And now my speedometer is unobstructed by the Autometer tach. Before -
If you are interested, visit the Shiftworks website or email them at
Shiftworks In-dash Tachometer Conversion Kits for Novas - Volume 4, Issue 9 - September, 2004
Shiftworks, the company that sells shifter conversions for stock
shifters to work with modern 3- and 4-speed automatic transmissions, is now offering In-Dash tachometer conversions to replace the factory clock
(or block-off cover) with a 7000 rpm tach. All Shiftworks in-dash tachs are engineered to fit into existing dash openings
and are designed to look factory installed.
Currently they are only available for 1963-65 and 1968-76 Novas (sorry you 1977-79 owners). For 1968-76, the in-dash tach
replaces the clock on the right side of the instrument cluster, not the fuel level gauge on the left like the factory tach.
It is also a round gauge that looks like the clock and not a "sunrise" tach like the factory
used. However, unlike the factory tachs that were for V8 only, these will work for 4- and 6-cylinder engines.
Shiftworks has 3 different applications:
1963-65 Nova In-dash Tachometer Conversion Kit, part# S515, $125.00
1968-70 Nova In-dash Tachometer Conversion Kit, part# S517-G, $125.00 (green numbers)
1971-72 Nova In-dash Tachometer Conversion Kit, part# S517-W, $125.00 (white numbers) These will also fit 1973-76 Novas.
As you can see above, 1968-70 are different from 1971-72 because 1968-70 have greenish numbers where 1971-72 (and 1973-76)
have white numbers. If your dash is not original and from a different year Nova, check the color first before ordering. I can
understand why Shiftworks left off 1975-76 from the listing because the instrument cluster has round openings instead of
square but I have no idea why they did not list 1973-74. Regardless, 1973-74 Novas have the same instrument cluster as 1969-72
and these tachs will fit. These tachs will also fit 1975-76 Nova clusters with no problems.
Shiftworks has also made these tachs available for National Nostalgic Nova
to sell. NNN sells these tachs for the exact same price however part numbers are different:
1963-65 Nova In-dash Tachometer Conversion Kit, NNN part# 31213, $125.00
1968-70 Nova In-dash Tachometer Conversion Kit, NNN part# 31214, $125.00 (green numbers)
1971-76 Nova In-dash Tachometer Conversion Kit, NNN part# 31215, $125.00 (white numbers)
Now, here's the bad news. It is unclear at this time if these tachs will work with an MSD box ignition system without an
expensive MSD tach adapter. However, according to Shiftworks they are aware of this problem and are working on a solution.
If you are interested, visit the Shiftworks website or email them at
Automotive Cleaning Supplies - Volume 4, Issue 8 - August, 2004
This is supposed to be a page of my ranting and/or raving but most of the time I seem to be just ranting. There have been
very few raves from me about products. I did touch on the GM mini-starters 2 months ago and my digital camera a few years
ago but today I want to brag about a company who makes great car cleaning products. The company is Stoner and they are located in Quarryville, PA.
My first introduction to Stoner was when I purchased their "Invisible
Glass" glass cleaner. It is just awesome. Easily the best window cleaner spray I have used. It leaves the glass crystal
clear with no streaking whatsoever. I ordered a 4 pack along with a bunch of nice lint-free rags to use on the windows.
My second purchase was their "More Shine, Less Time Tire Dressing". It
is a great tire shine product that isn't a foam and doesn't run or drip off the tires. Just spray it on and walk away. It
leaves a long lasting shine on the tires. This was ordered as a kit containing 3 cans of the Tire Dressing and 1 can of
Next up was their "Trim Shine" and "Interior Trim Shine". The Trim Shine I use on the unpainted bumpers and side trim on my wife's minivan. I
used to use a product that worked well but was very oily and had to be wiped after it was sprayed on. The Tire Shine is just
as good but easier to apply. The Interior Trim Shine is exactly the same but designed for interior plastics and vinyl. This
was ordered as a kit containing 2 cans of Trim Shine, one can of Interior Trim Shine, 2 rags and 2 cleaning brushes (slightly
larger than tooth brushes).
There are other products that I haven't tried yet but you can see their entire line on their webpage. I could not find their products in any store in my area but orders
can be placed from their webpage or via a toll-free phone number: 1-800-227-5538. All my orders were online and handled
smoothly. Delivery was also very quick. I highly recommend their stuff. You won't be disappointed with their quality or
In memory of Darrell Russell 1968-2004 - Volume 4, Issue 7 - July, 2004
NHRA Top Fuel driver and all-around nice guy Darrell Russell died Sunday June 27th, 2004 from injuries suffered in a
top-end crash during the Sears Craftsman Nationals at Gateway International Raceway in Madison, IL. Darrell was just 35
He had just crossed the top-end traps after losing to Scott Kalitta in the 2nd round of eliminations when his
Top Fuel dragster crashed. The dragster appeared to shred a tire after Darrell pulled the chute. The car went sideways as
it lost control and hit the concrete wall in the left lane. The NHRA Safety Safari was on the scene immediately and
quickly extinguished a small fire that erupted around the remains of the car.
Dan Brickey, director of emergency medical services for the NHRA, said the driver's compartment was intact when the rescue
team arrived. The Safety Safari cut away the roll cage, immobilized Darrell's spine and then took off his helmet and HANS
device before loading him onto a backboard and taking him to the ambulance. Brickey said Darrell was unconscious but
breathing when he was taken by helicopter to St. Louis University Medical Center, where he was pronounced dead about two
Russell is the first participant to be killed in competition at an NHRA national event since Blaine Johnson died in a
crash during a qualifying run at the U.S. Nationals at Indianapolis Raceway Park in 1996.
For those of you who don't know, Darrell drove for 5-time Top Fuel Champion Joe Amato after he retired from driving.
Darrell was only the 3rd driver to win his first professional start as was the 2001 Rookie of the Year. As a Joe Amato
fan, I became a Darrell Russell fan when he was chosen to replace Joe as the driver. His friendly personality made him
a fan favorite and one of the nicest people in the sport. My deepest sympathy go out to Darrell's family, friends and
to the entire Joe Amato Top Fuel team. Darrell will be sorely missed.
Mini Starters - Volume 4, Issue 6 - June, 2004
Another year has gone by since my last annual state inspection and just like last year, I only put slightly more than 400
miles on the Nova. Three kids under the age of 7 will do that to you. I get to drive it to local cruise nights and
occasionally to work and to take my oldest daughter to school but not much more. Little money has been available for the
Nova so not much has changed however, I finally did get to add that high-torque, mini starter I always wanted.
Due to the amount of downtime for the Nova, the starter was starting to give me problems. I drove my daughter to school
one day and it didn't want to start after I dropped her off. A quick jump and I was back on the road. First thought was the
battery but it tested fine because I use a battery tender/charger to maintain the battery while it sits. My next thought
was the cables but they also tested fine. That left the starter as the problem. I think all the sitting causes corrosion
on the contacts in the starter and the first couple of times it doesn't want to start. I've wanted one of those starters
anyway so I might as well do it now.
I was going to buy one of those aftermarket ones but I wasn't sure of the bolt pattern of my block. You see, there are 2
styles of bolt patterns, straight across and diagonal. Some blocks are drilled for both but some aren't and I wasn't sure
about mine. Most of the aftermarket mini starters are straight across and my starter was diagonal. Without removing the
starter I couldn't be sure if my block was drilled for the straight across starter. So to avoid any problems I chose to
use a GM starter setup for the diagonal pattern. As it turned out, my block was drilled for both.
GM started using the mini starters in the late 80's and the Performance Parts division have a starter specifically for
high performance engines. The part number is 9000852 and it is the started supplied with GM crate engines including the
502 big block. It lists for about $280 at your local GM dealership parts department. Online places like GMPartsDirect.com sell it for about $200 but I was able to find a
new, unused one on eBay.com for $75. It's a beautiful part that is almost
half the weight of a standard starter (12-lbs vs 22-lbs). It also spins the motor quicker with more torque. The solenoid
is also supposed to be able to withstand the heat better but I still kept my Ford remote starter
The removal if the old starter wasn't fun because it had a heat shield on it making it even harder to squeeze past the
headers and trans lines. The new, smaller starter easily slid into place leaving plenty of room for my hands to position
it. The only problem I came across was the original bolts were about 1/4" too long due to the smaller starter nose. The
solution was to use a 1/4" thick washers as spacers. Now it starts quickly with that new car whir sound and it's even 10
pounds lighter on the nose (every little bit helps).
Link Exchanges - Volume 4, Issue 5 - May, 2004
NovaResource.com is about providing Nova information. All the links to other webpages on my site are there because they
either provide Nova information or because I personally like the webpage. I never ask for a return link in exchange. But
I constantly get emails from other sites that say they placed a link to NovaResource.com on their site and now want me
to add a link to their site. Ah, no.
If I like your site, I'll link to it with nothing in return. If you want to link to NovaResource.com, feel free, just
don't ask for anything in return. I will not be forced into adding a link just because you did. These people think they're
doing me a favor by putting a link to NovaResource.com on their site. Big deal. More traffic to NovaResource.com does not
get me more money. I make no money at all from NovaResource.com and I will not help someone else make money by linking to
their site unless I want to. Period.
People know about NovaResource.com already and it doesn't need more links from some fly-by-night site. If NovaResource.com
needed links, how did they find out about it in the first place? Obviously it's already a popular site and these other
sites are trying to make money from our popularity. Sorry, I'll have none of it.
If you have a webpage about your Nova, I'll be glad add a link to it if you'd like. And I'm talking about real web pages,
not CarDomain.com type listings. Also, if you have a Nova-related product or if your company deals with Nova and/or the
restoration of Novas, feel free to email me and I'll link to your site.
I will not, however, link to sites that I feel are not "family-friendly" or are just tasteless. Also, if your site has
huge pictures that take forever to load or has tons of pop-ups, I won't link to it. I hate sites like that and I won't
subject NovaResource.com visitors to sites like that either. I hope I haven't offended anyone who has tried to do a link
exchange with me. It's just a general rule I want to go by. If I start linking to everyone who asked, the links pages
would be huge and not very helpful.
The Pontiac GTO - Volume 4, Issue 4 - April, 2004
The Pontiac GTO is finally out. I actually know someone who bought one last month. While it's a great car, it seems a
little over priced compared to how the original GTO were priced. And why does Pontiac only get this car? Hot Rod asked
that question and even photo-shopped some pictures of a GTO with more "Chevy-looking" front and rear facias. Hot Rod
called it the Chevelle SS and I think it's a great idea. But why stop there? Why not make lower powered and priced
versions for both Chevy and Pontiac?
The original GTO was a hot rodded Tempest/LeMans. Since Pontiac killed off the 2-door version of the Grand Prix when it
was redesigned, a 2-door Tempest with a 3800 V6 and a 2-door LeMans with the 5300 V8 would be perfect additions to the
Pontiac lineup. That would have a lot of the look of a GTO without the price-tag and insurance hit. And since neither the
Grand Prix nor Bonneville come in 2-doors, it wouldn't take away from their sales.
In that same thinking, you could have a Chevelle with either the 3800 V6 or the 5300 V8 under the LS1-powered Chevelle SS
to add to Chevys lineup. Because of the 2-door Monte Carlo with the 3.4 V6, that might not fly at Chevrolet but the
LS1-powered Chevelle SS would fill the void of the lost Camaro.
That isn't such a bad idea since both the Camaro and Firebird were sold with V6 engines. Two of the main reasons the
Camaro and Firebird are no more are because it lacked rear seat and trunk space and because V6 versions didn't sell as
well as Mustang V6 versions. Head to head, the LS1 GM F-bodies and Mustang GT sold about the same but the Mustang V6
greatly outsold the V6 versions of the GM F-bodies. I think a V6 Chevelle would sell well against the V6 Mustang. Right
now, aside from the Corvette, GM doesn't offer a sporty RWD 2-door coupe to compete with the Mustang.
You see, I want a cool, RWD daily driver but I don't want to spend a lot for it or a lot to insure it or a lot to fuel it.
It also doesn't need to be a 13 second car because if I want to go fast, I'll take the Nova. A high 14 to low 15 second
car is fine for my daily drive. Right now, the only car like that is the new Mustang and I really don't want to cross
over to the darkside. I think GM needs to think about this. Please GM, give us enthusiasts a quality RWD car that can be
inexpensive to purchase in a base form and still have options that would make it a high powered rocket.
Virus use NovaResource.com name - Volume 4, Issue 3 - March, 2004
This month I planned to talk about the new Pontiac GTO and my views on this car and how it could be used in other GM
divisions. However, I'm putting that aside for next month because of something that happened in the last few days.
I hate computer viruses. I hate email SPAM. But what's even worse is now the 2 are using my NovaResource.com name to
annoy not just me but you as well. In the past few days I've gotten a number of emails containing attachments that are
computer viruses and the sender address is "email@example.com". If you get an email with that address delete it. It
is not from me. I do not send out broadcast messages like that. 99% of the emails you will ever get from will be a reply
from an email you sent me first.
This is an unfortunate side effect when you become popular and well known. My webpage and email address are spread all
over the internet and that makes it good for spammers and hackers to exploit for their use. If you ever get an email from
NovaResource.com (or .org) that looks suspicious, email me before you open it and get infected.
The Nova Galleries - Volume 4, Issue 2 - February, 2004
What is with me this year?! Again I'm late in updating the website and galleries. Anyway, NovaResource.com is starting to
run low on space so next month I'm going to start removing some cars from the galleries. I'll start with some of the Novas
that are still "in-progress" to make room for the finished ones. Then I'll delete the ones where the picture quality is
lacking. For example, if the picture is very small or out of focus or dark or the Nova is blocked by an object or the
whole car is not in the frame. Lastly I remove some of the pictures from those who have sent numerous ones.
I'd like to take this time to talk about submitting pictures to the gallery. First, please don't send me huge pictures
that take up my entire mailbox. If your email is larger than 6 meg, you need to make it smaller. And I don't mean send me
6 emails 1 meg emails either. On the other side of the coin please don't send pictures that are so small you can't see the
car. Pictures should be approx 800x600 in size and in JPEG format (no bitmaps).
Second, try to keep it less than 5 pictures. 2 shots of the body (3/4 style), one of the engine and one of the interior
is usually enough.
Third, picture quality is a must. Please don't use cameras that put a time and date stamp in the photo. Also, make sure the
picture is clear, in-focus and not too dark. Make sure the whole car is in the frame and not part of it cut out. Try not
to get other object in the picture that distract from the car. Things like other cars parked in front or behind. Trees,
street signs, people etc. Some things can't be helped like if you send a picture from the track. That's OK but try to keep
it to a minimum.
Lastly, please include your full name, the model year of the Nova and a SHORT description of the car. I like to give as
much information about the car as possible (engine, trans, rear, timeslips, interior and exterior colors, wheel and tire
info, etc.) but you don't need to describe every last detail of the car like what bearings and oil you used.
I want to make the galleries a great place to look at quality Novas. Stock and customized, 4-doors and non V8's are all
welcomed. If the deletions I make happen to you, I'm sorry. It's just something I need to do until I get more space.
I thank all of you who have sent pictures and I really enjoy looking at your Novas. They are some of the nicest Novas I've
seen. Keep up the great work and as always....
A late start to 2004 - Volume 4, Issue 1 - January, 2004
Well I must first apologize for this late update to NovaResource.com. I usually like to have it done by the first of each
month but I was unable to this month and you'll soon find out why. Let's just say I'm glad the holidays are over. December
started out with my 2 month old son getting the croup followed by my 4 year old daughter getting the stomach bug that was
going around and then my 6 year old daughter got strep throat. It was not a fun month especially with all the doctor's
visits (and co-pays) when the entire world was getting the flu and visiting the doctors.
We managed to get through all that and everyone finally got better when we started noticing the 6-year old scratching her
head. Yes, she had lice. Apparently gotten from school BEFORE the holiday break. Not only her but my wife as well. The 2
with the longest hair in the house. Fortunately, the 4-year old and my son were spared, as was I (one of the few benefits
of being bald).
Neither my wife nor I have ever had lice as kids so we were not prepared for what we were about to go through. My wife's
first reaction was terror as she is a clean freak. She not only gives all 3 kids baths every day but washes their hair
every day. How could this happen!? My first reaction was to hit the Internet and get as much info as possible. As it turns
out, lice actually like clean heads. The cleaner the better.
Lice lay eggs (called nits) attached to strands of hair near the scalp. The eggs take 7 to 10 days to hatch and then
another 5 to 7 days to become "mature" and start laying eggs. When an egg hatches, it must bite the scalp to get blood
within 45 minutes or it will die. Mature lice can live 48 hours off the scalp before they die. A friend who went through
this twice with her daughters was a great help to us by showing us what to look for and what to do. First wash your hair
with the lice medicine and comb out all live lice from the infected people and drop them in alcohol to kill them. That
stops them from laying more eggs. Fortunately, there weren't many live lice in my daughter and wife's heads. Next, wash
everything in hot water and put them through the dryer for at least 30 minutes. Clothes, sheets, pillow cases, jackets,
hats, etc. EVERYTHING. Things like pillows and dolls that can't be washed must be sealed in plastic bags to 2 weeks. This
kills any live lice and any eggs that might hatch. Next, vacuum the chairs, carpet, sofa, etc. Then boil everything else.
Combs, brushes, hair clips, bows, etc. My electric, gas and water bills are going to be through the roof this month.
Ever hear the term "Picking Nits"? Well, I now fully understand the term because that was next. No matter what the
medicine says, it won't kill them all and the nit comb does not get all the eggs out. All it does is rip out the hair from
your head. While that will work, I doubt my wife and daughter will appreciate being bald. So the only thing left to do is
go through their heads, hair by hair, to find the eggs and remove them by hand. My wife would check my daughter and I
would check my wife. It's a 1.5 to 2 hour process done daily until you find no more. White eggs are live while brown eggs
are dead. We were finding dead eggs for days until both were clear. Think we're done? Nope. We have to keep checking for
about 2 weeks to make sure we haven't missed any and we're still waiting to unwrap all the stuff in bags.
Later we found that 4 other kids in my daughter's school has lice. 2 tried to return but the nurse found nits in their
heads and sent them home. What's up with these parents? We kept our daughter home 3 days and made sure she was clear
before we sent her back (she was cleared by the nurse the first time). I'm sure the other parents weren't as careful or as
through as we were. Now I'm afraid she'll get them back. I'm so annoyed at these parents. Because of their carelessness,
my wife and I had to go through torture. Clean your heads people and stay away from my kids! Well, we finally appear to be
lice-free and the website finally got updated. If you sent pictures of your Nova for the gallery, they should now be
there. Thanks for your patience and enjoy the rest of the month. I'll be glad when it's over.
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||Copyright © 2004 Scott Windle
||Created on: 02/13/04
||Updated on: 01/01/05